Somewhere in Iloilo, there is a secret hideaway called Orly's where the locals go when they want a fix of sinabawan nga isda.The place is actually a one room affair made of nipa and bamboo with furnishings of crude bamboo benches and about six tables that can accommodate eight people. Elbow room is scarce. If you are looking for a floor, then go somewhere else because there is only sand for your feet to rest on. Call it a ramshackle affair because it really is. No excuses. But nobody seems to mind, not even the habitue of pesky flies. Frankly, this is no place for the finicky foodie.
Within arms length from your table is sun-drenched Orly in maong(denim) shorts, sleeveless shirt and esmagol(rubber slippers) in his shabby kitchen equipped with a sugbahan(barbecue grill) made from scrap iron and a series of wood- fired dapogs(earthenware stove). It is quite smoky at times when an occasional gust of sea wind drifts in. But you really don't mind even when the kitchen smoke waffles your cultured nostrils and vandalizes the dapper smell of your latest Hilfiger perfume.
Once you step into the hut you are greeted with a smile and led into a styrofoam cooler filled with the fresh catch of the day.These fishes are sourced from the Iloilo Fishing Port before the break of dawn. Once you pinned your choice of either Bulgan,Tangigue or any meaty white fish, you order Orly to "shoot to kill". Blame it on the Pinoy's fun way with the Bard's Language. Shoot to kill is a short cut for sugba(grill),tola(boil with condiments) and kilaw( cook raw in vinegar). Usually the fish head is reserved for tinola and the other portions are prepared as kinilaw and sinugba.That done, you sip a beer, nibble on green mangoes with guinamos(fermented shrimp paste) and steamed talaba (oysters) from Capiz as Orly does his thing with your fish. It is a long cool wait that you enjoy because you know you're in for a good sweaty workout once you swoop on the soup. It takes the kinks away. If you are a pork freak then go all the way and order his take of sinugba nga baboy marinated in kalamansi garlic and soy sauce. Nothing beats a slice or two of grilled native pork
oozing with glorious fat.
We had some fresh Halibut portions last Saturday and I decided to do a Tinola ala Orly.
It's easy.
Season the fish with salt.
Boil some water on a pot with a little salt,crushed ginger and sliced tomatoes.
Once all the flavors have been infused, adjust the boil to a simmer.
Put the fish in the pot and cook the fish till done. Do not overcook.
Adjust the seasoning.
Place in a bowl and garnish with green onions.
Serve hot.
i know some guys who don't eat fish cooked this way..as they say 'isdang basa'..i do..paksiw, pesa, pangat, sinigang..you name it..hehe..nyam!
Posted by: ces | March 27, 2006 at 07:54 PM
Nothing like simple treatment to really fresh fish. Brings out the sweetness. Will do this later, have some malasugui in the freezer. And I miss those SuTuKil stalls. Your title reminds me of how my officemates from the Visayas and Mindanao yearn for mainit na sabaw when in Manila.
Posted by: Kai | March 28, 2006 at 01:36 AM
WOW! I want to have this sinabawan!
Posted by: | March 28, 2006 at 05:43 AM
ces- easy to prepare pa. hindi nag "splatter".:)
kai- yes. how often we forget that condiments are there to enhance rather than hide the flavor.malasugi is good.
theoretical cook- its really easy to make. freshness is the key.
Posted by: angelo | March 28, 2006 at 10:19 AM
Ange,
Sa diin ina ang Orly's man, pray tell...another one to add to the list of "must eat at" palces in iloilo.
Posted by: Jenny Case | March 28, 2006 at 11:50 AM
mmm...sounds interesting - specially the way you wrote it! this combination of ginger with tomatoes and fish is new to me. the pork version sounds good too.
Posted by: MitaMS | March 28, 2006 at 12:17 PM
jen- orly's is in villa. turn left after the bridge. stone's throw away from villa rosa.
Posted by: angelo | March 29, 2006 at 09:03 AM
Oh, i do remember this in my younger days, that's a long time ago. lol. I've not had it since - looks so deliciously good for you. I remember the sweet taste of the fish and the gingery tomato soup with the fish taste. sarap.
Posted by: mae | April 02, 2006 at 06:38 AM
cool info about inasal and fish sinabawan.thanks!inform you if masarapan ang aking ilonggong papa.
Posted by: kat | August 12, 2006 at 08:18 PM
cool info about inasal and fish sinabawan.thanks!inform you if masarapan ang aking ilonggong papa.
Posted by: kat | August 12, 2006 at 08:18 PM
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